Has Primanti Bros., famous for its 'Almost Famous' sandwiches, lost its allure? Maybe, says Sono Motoyama, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette food writer, in a recent commentary.
Say it aint say, Joe—Primanti!
This Pittsburgh icon, with its stacked sandwiches featuring fries and coleslaw on top, is now in its 91st year and continues to expand its reach with 43 locations across several states - and likely is a major, albeit an indirect, supporter, of various local cardiovascular clinics (We won’t name them in case they ever decide to sponsor us).
However, a subjective taste test by the author and a lack of enthusiastic respondents for a free lunch offer creates a skepticism about the current charm of the eatery.
While Primanti Bros. certainly has its share of fans, the author suggests there are places in Europe that do a better job of a similar sandwich concept. Seriously? Europe?
Despite the possible decline in perceived culinary appeal to Europeans, the long-lasting brand remains a staple in the city of Pittsburgh - for better or worse.
For non-Yinzers that are not familiar, Primanti's Restaurants are known for their signature sandwiches, stacked high with meat, cheese, fries and coleslaw and remarkable ability to hold a fried egg or two. It it is served two simple ways: sloppy and sloppy in a box.
The iconic Pittsburgh establishment has been a go-to spot for locals and visitors alike for nearly a century. However, as food tastes and trends change over time, some may wonder if Primanti Bros. has lost its charm.
Despite the commentary by Motoyama, there are still many loyal fans of Primanti's who swear by their sandwiches. In fact, many would argue that the restaurant's success lies not just in its unique sandwich concept, but also in its history and connection to the city of Pittsburgh.
I give Primanti’s credit. These folks jump on all things Pittsburgh and waste not a marketing nickel to jump on a Pittsburgh promotional opportunity. Hey there is nothing more Pittsburgh than making a fast buck.
Heck, no sooner than we landed a retread quarterback of renown Seattle fame, by Denver ejector seat, did they they not have the “DangerRuss” sandwich ready to go? What is it?
It’s a pile of various meats.That’s really all we need to know.
But really some other smart local eatery could have cashed in on our steel town luck in landing a humbled broken horse from Denver in QB Russell Wilson. And guess what - we looked that gift horse in the mouth and said thank you Denver. Likewise, thank you Primanti Bros. for the DangerRuss. It cleverly plays on two levels: 1.) Russel Wilson’s name, and; 2.) the ongoing obesity epidemic in America due to coronary disease.
Be that as it may, let’s get back to our own culinary glue factory (no idea what I mean by that). Primanti's deserve's credit for being shrewd marketing folks.
After all, you would think with Russel Wilson coming from Seattle that some local coffee chain - say ah “Yinz Coffee” - would be smart enough to commemorate his ascension as a practically free quarterback refill for say the empty Ben cup we were left with upon his retirement. Moreover, they could offer up a “Russ Refill” free cup of coffee type of deal - at least for every Moon ball that hits Pickens in the red zone (and for which there is no subsequent unsportsmanlike conduct flag).
That would be cool. Good luck with all that. Admittedly, all this hyperbole dodges the central nagging question: Is Primanti’s food actually any good?
Hmm. That depends. I don’t know. Does it matter?
I’ll say it was great for me and my pals when the bar scene was wrapping up in the wee hours of the night, circa 1990s wondering Forbes avenue aimlessly in some Oakland drunken stupor. Seriously, could you actually beat a Primanti’s whatever sandwich with a side of “O fries” for good measure. Dang that’s some good drunk food.
And if that’s its true claim to fame? So be it. I can live with that.
Hey, as a heralded “football town with a drinking problem” perhaps Pittsburgh’s culinary contribution to world is we humbly have the best drunk cuisine the world has ever known?
The “almost famous” - no make that “almost infamous” - sandwich is one that that will soak up all that Iron City, right? Or, is it the answer to that Snoop Dog cloud that made you so ravenously hungry? Behold Yinzers I give you the medicinal Capicola and Cheese!
Therefore, instead of if questioning if the food is good or not, let’s pay some good ol’ Bloomfield Italian proper respect to this local business that wears Pittsburgh and Yinzer life like a badge of courage. We owe Primanti’s that!
Founded in 1933 by Joe Primanti, an Italian immigrant, legend has it that the restaurant served truck drivers and workers from the bustling Strip District. The addition of fries and coleslaw to the sandwiches was a way to make them more filling for the hard-working customers. So some say it was a way to palm an entire meal with one hand
Maybe that’s an urban Pittsburgh legend, but I like to hold onto that vision of a proud iron worker pounding down a Colossal Fish in one hand while hammering rivets through an I-beam with the other.
That vision still reps well today - from the greatest generation down to those sissy’s that ghost jobs. No need to take generational pot shots here, but hey, that’s what Pittsburgh dads do, right? Holy Mother of St. Rooney Parish these kids “Boomer” me without mercy and to no end - and I’m Gen Z(oloft).
Let’s focus on the ball here (be the ball Danny): Is Primanti’s is good food? That’s the question.
To find out, I say go hammer steel. Lay some rebar. Throw down some boiler makers to earn the pain of your dire back.
At dinner time, you tell me what is in order - an impossible burger, a tofu bowl, a French crepe? Or would you prefer or a steaming pile of lunch meat boomed with coleslaw, fries, tomatoes, maybe some eggs - all forged with Pittsburgh protein recovery pride and side of a blue broken collar bone tradition? The kind of sandwich where toothpicks are used as rebar to hold the caloric Frankenstein together.
I mean how the hell can you even describe a sandwich like a Primanti’s to a non-Yinzer? I don’t know. A CMU grad might call the stacking of baloney, fried eggs, bacon, and fries, a quantum cardiovascular caloric entanglement.
Lets finish up with a nod to the simple enduring legacy of Primanti Bros.
Today, Primanti's has expanded its reach with locations in several states, but it still holds onto its roots. The original location in the Strip District is still open 24/7, serving up their famous sandwiches to hungry customers at all hours of the day. And while there may be places in Europe that offer a similar sandwich concept, I say they can go choke on a wiener schnitzel.
No doubt about it: Primanti Bros. remains a beloved and iconic part of Pittsburgh's food scene And if you don’t think it is the best drunk food ever, I got one hand holding an “almost famous” double baloney with egg on two slices of Mancini bread for you. However, this arm is folded over the other. The the hand on that other arm has its longest finger raised in the air and is giving a Yinzer gesture called the “Pittsburg Salute” (or what I like to say in sign language means “Cleveland is up North, Pal”).
On that note, our next article will focus on healthy living, optimizing your microbiome, and restoring heart health on a lonely treadmill at Crunch Fitness. The guy with the smile on his face, trying to catch his breath? That would me.
Editor's Note: We often pop in at the Primanti's at McIntyre Square. Absolutely, some of the best and most personable bartenders you will find across Pittsburgh. If you go, say hi to Carly, Taylor, and Mel. We are Not just saying that for a free beer either (hmm... or maybe we are).
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